PANORAMIC TOUR AROUND KAZAN. by Pekhteleva L.A.. Duration: 2 hours

PANORAMIC TOUR AROUND KAZAN

by Pekhteleva L. A.

Duration: 2 hours

How do you do, dear guests. I’m glad to greet you in the wonderful city – Kazan. Let me welcome you in Tatar language: “Рэхим итегез! ”, and in Russian: “Добро пожаловать! ”. Welcome to Kazan, the capital of the Republic of Tatarstan! My name is….. . The name of our driver is…. The bus number is…

Our tour will last 2 hours and through it you will touch upon the history of our ancient city, learn a lot about architectural monuments of Kazan. During our excursion you will see the Old Tatar Settlement, the University ensemble, the old walls of Kazan Kremlin, the miracle-working Kazan icon of Mother of God of the 16^th century, and many other interesting things.

So, we are starting our tour from the Kazan River Port square. Kazan River Port is the biggest one on the Volga River. Kazan is situated on the left bank of the Volga River, on the main navigable artery which makes our city an important trading center. It is a place where the East and the West meet, where two great civilizations, two great religions and many ethnic groups all live in peace and close collaboration with each other. More than 100 nationalities live friendly in the Republic of Tatarstan. There are 20 cities and towns in the Republic. The official languages are Tatar and Russian. Today Tatarstan is one of the largest socio-economic, scientific and political centers of the Volga Region. The Republic has rich natural resources and developed industry.

But the main property of the Kazan city is its old history! The first inhabitants appeared on this territory 100 000 years ago after the Ice Age. The ancestors of the modern Tatars – the Bulgars – came to these lands in the 9-10^th centuries Common Era and established the state of Volga-Kama Bulgaria. Kazan of that time was the military and administrative outpost of the Volga Bulgaria state. In the 12^th cent. Kazan became the province of Bulgaria within the Golden Horde state. After the breakdown of the Golden Horde Kazan became the capital of the established Kazan Khanate which survived till the middle of 16^th cent. The Khanate existence ended in 1552 when after repeated campaigns and a 2-months-long siege Kazan fell to the Ivan the Terrible’s army and the territory became a Russian province.

In 2005 Kazan celebrated its thousandth anniversary. Now Kazan population goes beyond 1 million and 100 thousand people. The city dynamically grows, all kinds of industries are represented here, from making Russian and Tatar national shoes and synthetic rubber to helicopters and airplanes. Also Kazan is a city of many significant events of arts and culture. Here, the annual International Opera Festival named after Shalyapin is held, as well as Classical Ballet Festival named after Rudolf Nuriev.

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Just now we’ve entered the street that bears the name of our Republic – Tatarstan Street. This is one of the oldest streets of our city. This part of the city bears the historical name “Iske Tatar Bistese” meaning “Old Tatar Settlement” which originated in the 16^th century. It is exactly the place where the Tatar inhabitants of the city were concentrated after Ivan the Terrible annexed Kazan to the Russian state.

And it was here that the ancient Tatar culture and traditions were maintained. The architectural ensemble of the Old Tatar Settlement consists of wonderful wooden houses in distinctive national style. There are many memorable houses and buildings in this settlement. This is the place of heartbeat of Tatar culture, enlightenment, and national craft. Here, in Old Settlement, Tatar merchants owned factories of soap production, leather and cloth manufacturing. Tatars were very true to their faith, so religion played an important role in the history of the nation. Old Tatar Settlement was the place where old mosques are concentrated. In the depth of the street you may see now Nurulla mosque, it’s a building with the green cupola and a fine high corner minaret.

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We are reaching Mardjani Mosque. Please be careful when you alight from the bus and cross the road.

So, we are in the courtyard of the Mardjani Mosque. We see a two-storied building with a three-tiered minaret on its roof. According to Islamic tradition the minarets are topped by crescent. The minaret is intended for call to prayer, named “azan”. While designing the building, the architect, supposedly Kaftyrev, used traditions of the medieval Tatar architecture and elements of Russian provincial baroque. Again, you see how East and West are meeting in architectural composition.

The history of this mosque started from 1766 when Catherine II gave her personal permission to build the first stone mosque after Ivan the Terrible’s conquest. After the conquest of 1552 there was the period when all mosques of the Khanate Kazan were destroyed or reconfigured into some other institutions. So Russian tsarina of that times, Catherine II, said stop to that and answered to the request of Tatar merchants by giving permission to construct the mosque. The mosque was erased on the donations of the parishioners. There was Tatar merchant-family Yunusov’s who made particularly large contribution to the maintenance of this mosque. That’s why in the beginning of the 19^th cent. The mosque was named “Yunusov’s”. Later, the mosque was headed by Imam Shigabuddin Mardjani, the most significant figure in the culture of Tatars. He was enlightener, religious reformer, historian and theologian of the 19^th cent. His works have been recognized both in East and Europe. That’s why the whole complex started to bear his name.

The historical importance of this mosque is that it has never been closed from the very beginning of its existence. Even during a very strict period of Soviet regime the mosque was used properly.

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This street we are passing by and this square we stopped near is the ancient heart of the Old Tatar Settlement. This is Yunus Square named after the private residence of the richest Kazan merchant and manufacturer. It was the beloved place of joy, festivities and most important socio-political events took place here in this square.

It is impossible not to notice the gracious two-storey mansion in Medieval style with little towers and spires on the other side of the street. The palace was built at the end of the 19^th cent. by architects Amlong and Rush. Today the house shelters the Literature Museum of Gabdulla Tukay. However, in Kazan it is known as Shamil’s House, because there lived the retired Major-General Muhammedshafi Shamil, son of Caucasus leader sheikh Shamil. Muhammedshafi Shamil was married to the daughter of a very significant Tatar merchant Apakov - Bibimariambanu Apakova. Although she was only 18 years old she was an enthusiastic, highly educated and innovative person. She owned several detached houses, apartments and fashion houses in the city. Bibimariambanu was the first to initiated school for girls in Old Tatar Settlement.

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Please, pay your attention to the right side – you may see a grayish building with a triangular roof. This is Tatar National Theatre named after Galiaskar Kamal. Please, pay attention to decoration in national style. This decoration is called Tatar tulip or lotus. This is the most favorite national ornament of Tatars.

On the left you may see a modern building with a balustrade – this is one of the buildings of Kazan Federal University. In front of the building there is a monument to a classic of Tatar music, composer Salikh Saydashev.

Now we are approaching the “Millennium” Park. The name of the Park says for itself. It was opened in 2005 by the celebration of the city’s Millennium. The Park is guided by bronze Zilants – winged serpents - symbols of Kazan city. There is a legend about the winged Serpent that sank to the bottom of Kaban Lake during the time of the city foundation. The Central Valley of the park is the Valley of Millennium. It symbolizes the millennial way of the city development. Right here, there is a zone of Crossroads. It is a symbol of the role of Kazan as a place where East and West meet. The dominant of the Park is a huge round fountain in the shape of a cauldron. This is another symbol of our city because “cauldron” in Tatar is “Kazan”. According to Volga Bulgars’ tradition the circle is a symbol of endlessness, power and wealth. Around the Fountain we see valleys with many trees planted alongside. They were planted by the city celebrities and leaders of the other Russian regions.

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There is a Catholic Church of the Exaltation of the Cross. In the depth of that street there is a Russian Old Belief Church. All of them coexist with each other very peacefully. Here we see a building that is a reminiscent of Tatar men headwear “tjubeteika” – this is Basket Hall. This is the biggest basketball arena in Europe.

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There is a monument to a person from the Middle Ages. This is Kul Gali – a poet and a philosopher of Volga Bulgaria Age. He is an author of a famous poem “Legend about Yusuf” based on Biblical plot. Kul Gali lived and worked in the beginning of 13-th century and perished during the fall of Bulgaria State defeated by Batii khan’s army. Kul Gali was killed along with other 40 scholars of Volga Bulgaria state. His works were distinguished by personal propensity to peace, aversion for the falsehood, hypocrisy and meanness.

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And now, you can enjoy a view of the main street of Old Tatar Settlement- street in name of Shigabutdin Mardjani. Two-storey houses with polychromical colouring of the fronts are typical city dwellings of Tatar merchants of 19 century. All Tatar houses were placed on stone ground floor.

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On your left you can see Kaban Lake. In fact, here was Volga River itself and the Lake is a remnant of that very proto Volga. Now it is hard to believe but some 250 year ago Kazan housewives used only Kaban lake water for washing clothes and for drinking. The lake is situated in Low town, in its Tatar part, and the Noble part of Kazan, i. e. Upper town used to buy the water from the lake. The water was of amazing quality. The water was used also by soap-works and by tannery. However, the lake is famous not only for this. According to an old legend, before Kazan was captured by Ivan the Terrible, Kazan khans had dropped all their treasures into the lake. The bottom of it is poorly searched. Some people believe that if the lake bottom is cleaned from the centuries-old silt it would be possible to find the khans’ treasures. And before that happens, Zilant the Serpent carefully guides them on the bottom.

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Drastic changes in deeply dramatic and sometimes even tragic history of the Tatar nation gave an origin to extraordinary many-talented people in their midst. In Russia, when people say Tatars, in the first place they put an outstanding Tatar poet Gabdulla Tukay by all means. Now, we are reaching the central square of our city that bears his name.

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The Gabdulla Tukay square gives beginning for the two main pedestrian streets of Kazan. This old central street on your left used to be called “The Big Break Street” after the break of Kazan City Walls made by Ivan the Terrible’s Army during the siege of Kazan. In the street depth you may see the high bell-tower made of red stone. This is Epiphany Cathedral bell-tower built in the end of 19 century. Its height is 67 meters.

The square of Gabdulla Tukay is the only in our city that has unofficial name - the Ring. Now, it is the main shopping zone for the city-dwellers and the guests.

Many outstanding people visited Kazan. So, in 1833 A. S. Pushkin visited this wonderfully cozy city. During his three days visit he collected the material for his book about Pugachev’s rebellion. Recollections of Kazan citizens about that period were reflected in the famous book “The Capitan’s daughter”. In memory of the visit of the great Russian poet A. S. Pushkin the street, which we are going along, was named. It is one of the oldest streets in the city, on the left side of which you can see several modern buildings of Kazan University. Many names of talented scientists are connected with the University and one of them is A. M. Butlerov, who is very comfortably sitting in his armchair on a foot of a hill. The bronze sculpture was set here in 1978 in honor of 150th anniversary of that scientist, who created the theory of the organic substances’ structure.

We are moving along the street that was named after a well-known Russian writer Maxim Gorky. If you look to the right you will see an ordinary two-storey white small house. There was a bakery where Gorky baked and sold hot rolls in his teens. At present we have Gorky Museum there.

Another eminent Russian poet of the second part of 18 century who was connected very closely to Kazan is Gavriil Derzhavin. You may see a monument to him in the right windows. This monument in baroque style is the oldest monument in Kazan.

And very soon you will see the youngest monument of our city. It is to the people of extinct profession – water-carriers. Do you remember I’ve told you about water-carriers that provided Kazan nobility with Kaban Lake water? Next to a modern administrative building of Municipal Water Supply Department on your right you can see a group of water-carriers selling water to a Tatar girl.

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In the 19^th century this was the end of the city, here were the so–called Siberia Gates. The long way to hard labour began from this place for prisoners. In the end of 18^th century at the gates there was erected Saint Barbara Church. In the left (right) windows of the bus you can see the red and white colored building of a church with golden domes. Exactly here, in St. Barbara Church, who was a protector of travelers, prisoners were given their last blessing, before a long way to Siberian exile. In 1901-1907 it was reconstructed in the pseudo-Russian style. The Church is also famous for F. Shalyapin who used to sing in the church choir.

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Here we are passing by the buildings of Agrarian University and Technological University. Close to it there is an unusual two-storeyed, white and red building of Art College in pseudo-Russian style. It was established in 1895. Now the Art College bears the name of an artist Nikolay Feshin, who studied and worked here. He is famous all over the world, and especially in the USA where he emigrated after the Revolution and where there is his museum.

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Here we are to stop and alight from the bus to meet Count Leo Tolstoy. We are in Tolstoy public garden. I must say that Tolstoy family had deep relations with Kazan. Here, grandfather of Leo Tolstoy was a governor and his grand grandfather was at military service. Leo Tolstoy, with his brothers and sister Maria, was brought to Kazan by their aunt when they became orphans. The family lived in this beige house on your right. His sister attended a boarding school for girls from noble families, which was right here. Now there is a Cadet School. We see the bust of aged Tolstoy in front of us. However, he was very young when he lived here for about 6 years. Here, young Tolstoy studied at University. He differed from others by his restless character. From the very youth his mind was occupied by philosophical thoughts: what is the meaning of life? What is the truth? Kazan period of Tolstoy's life was reflected in his works. His novels: " After the Ball", " A Landlord's Morning", autobiographical trilogy " Childhood", " Adolescence" and “Youth” bear traces of his life in Kazan.

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This street we are driving along now is the street inhabited by Russian aristocracy in 18^th and 19^th cent. One of the most beautiful mansions of our city the former private residence of General Sandetskiy. It is the historical monument of the beginning of 20^th cent. Now it houses the State Museum of Fine Arts—one of the largest art collections of Russia.

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Soon we will visit a small park which is named after a foreign scholar, naturalist, doctor, historian and man of wide interest--Karl Fucks Public Garden.

Without this German surname our impression of 19^th cent. Kazan would be much poorer. He came to Kazan as a university teacher but fell in love with the city and its people! So, Kazan became his second Native Land. He got closely acquainted with Tatar inhabitants and became the first doctor to whom local people could open their doors. He married here in Kazan to a well-known poetess of that times Alexandra Apekhtina. Their house for about 30 years served as a centre of public life of the city. Many famous writers and poets were among common visitors of their house. He was a very open, clever and talented person.

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Let us get closer to Kazanka River. On the opposite bank there is the most populous and well developed district of Kazan. There you see Entertainment Complex “Riviera” with a large aqua-park and open beach, Ice Centre “Tatneftarena” which is inferior only to analogous one in Hamburg. Pay attention to the bridge with the huge letter “M”, which means “Millennium”, because this bridge was built for the 1000^th anniversary of Kazan. It is one of the highest and modern bridges in Kazan city. And near the bridge there is one more complex, it is grey color and resembles two hands put together. This is Martial Arts Center “Ak Bars” constructed specially for the Universiade.

To the left the National Culture Centre “Kazan” is situated – the building looks like red flags, and we are going to reach it by bus. Please, get on the bus.

In a red colored building, which is on the right side, there is a big complex, which includes the National Culture Museum, concert and mass cultural complexes. Speaking about the ensemble of the construction I’d like to point the monument “Khorriyat”. It is the statue of a bird–like woman, which symbolizes liberty. The monument was opened in honour of the 6^th anniversary of the Tatarstan Republic independence.

And now we are coming to the central square of Kazan with administrative buildings and a beautiful garden.

Now, we are entering the most elegant square of Kazan, square of Liberty, or Svoboda square, former Theatre square. There is an excellent building of Opera and Ballet Theatre named after a famous Tatar poet Musa Jalil. The building is in classicist style but we can see Tatar motives finely interspersed in ornamentation. If you take a close look at a three-cornered pediment, you will see girls and young men in Tatar national dress and with national instruments in their hands. The centre of the square is occupied by a monument to Lenin erected in the middle of 1960-s. The pedestal of it is made of granite that was used for the Mausoleum in Moscow.

On your left you can see a building in the style of Italian Palazzo. This is a building of the City Hall, former Nobility Assembly. Next to the City Hall there is the Conservatory Concert Hall named after an outstanding Tatar composer Salikh Saidashev. The design of the building is beautiful – the building is many-colored; a new Dutch organ is installed there.

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People of different confessions live in Kazan: Christianity, Islam, Judaism, Catholicism, etc. Very soon we will see St. Catherine’s Evangelist–Lutheran Church. Many foreigners came to Russia in the beginning of 18^th century, thanks to reforms of Peter the Great. As a result a large German community was formed. They were doctors, teachers, scientists, engineers. The Lutheran community was formed in 1767 and then, the building of a wooden Lutheran church began. Later, in 1863, a new church building was constructed in eclectic style (new Romance style with gothic style elements).

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And now we are driving up to a holy place of all Christian Kazan people – to a place where Kazan icon of Mother of God was invented. It happened in 1579 when a little girl – Matrona, found a miraculous icon.

After the fire, which destroyed a considerable part of the city, Mother of God came to Matrona in her sleep. She wanted the girl to find her holy image and pointed the place where her miracle–working icon should be taken, but Matrona got scared and told nobody about her visions. Finally, Mother of God came to her in fire and said to the girl, that if she didn’t do it the whole city would be in danger. The girl told about her last vision to the mother and they found the icon, where the furnace was situated, about 10 cm below the surface. It was wrapped in a cherry – color sleeve, but it was so bright as if it was just painted. At once its wonderful power became apparent. Invalids and cripples started to recover. A year after the nunnery began to grow here and Matrona became one of the first nuns.

Now, let’s go to the backyard of the monastery to see the chapel on the place of invention.

But the icon’s destiny was tragic: it was stolen. But, fortunately, the miraculous copy of the icon of Mother of God was kept in the personal chapel of Pope John–Paul the 2^nd. And in 2005 to the 1000^th anniversary of Kazan Pope John-Paul the 2^nd returned the icon to Kazan.

Now, I invite you to come into the monastery, I remind you that ladies have to cover their heads and men should take off their hats. Our tour will be continued in 10 minutes, our bus will wait for us on this place. Mind the time, please.

Before reaching the final destination of our tour, we will visit one of the oldest and spectacular cathedrals in Kazan city – Peter and Paul Cathedral.

Churches and monasteries were usually built near picturesque places. We leave on the left the beautiful park, which has a very interesting name “The Black Lake”, because in the centre of this park there is a small lake. This park was the famous and favorite place of Kazan nobility. Here was the first and very respectable restaurant in the city. In winter, there was an ice rink.

So, here we are, we have reached the Peter and Paul Cathedral. Please alight from the bus and follow me. (во дворе собора) This cathedral is the most beautiful in Kazan. You can admire the unique exterior of this temple. Its lavish decorations are the splendid example of the Russian baroque style. The height of the church is 52 meters. The height of the five-tiered bell-tower is 45 meters. The history of the Cathedral started after Peter the Great visited Kazan. On his way to Persia in May 1722 he stayed in Kazan. He stayed and celebrated his 50^th anniversary in the only stone dwelling house at that time, which belonged to the merchant I. Mikhlyayev. The host of the house presented the eminent guest with a tray full of silver coins and promised to build a cathedral in honour of the tsar’s divine protectors Saints Peter and Paul.

Local masters began to build St. Peter and Paul Cathedral near Mikhlyayev’s house but soon it collapsed, so Peter the Great sent his skilled masters to Kazan. In 1726 the cathedral was consecrated.

Driving back up to Kremlyovskaya Street, I’d like to draw your attention to this splendid edifice you see in your left windows. This is the Alexandrovskiy Passage constructed in 19^th cent. on the means of merchant Alexandrov. It was a mall which accommodated best shops and restaurants, a cinema, a photographer’s studio. It was the most fashionable and modern mall of the past.

This beautiful street leads us to our final destination - Kazan University, which started its history since 1804. This is the second oldest University in Russia, after Moscow University. On the right there is Physics Department, the high building with Einstein’s formula on the faзade; on the left you can see Chemistry Department, a yellow-white building in classicist style. And now on your left you can see a beautiful building in eclectic style with bright baroque stucco mouldings - this is Ushkovs house built in 1908. The mansion was given as a wedding present to Zinaida Vysotskaya, daughter of University professor, by a rich Russian industrialist Ushkov.

Since 1919, the building has contained the National Library of Tatarstan Republic with its 4 million items, including 14, 000 manuscripts and rare books.

To the right, there is the main building of the University, in pure classicist style. But the building was not always like this. Originally there were 2 different edifices. In 1822-1825 the two buildings were incorporated into the main building of the University. The University began to develop very fast. In the first decades of the 19^th century there appeared the first scientific schools – of Mathematics, Astronomy, Chemistry, Medicine, History, Law, Russian and Oriental Languages, Arts.

The foundation of the Mathematics school was due to the great mathematician Nickolay Lobachevskiy, the founder of non-Euclid geometry. He was also the Headmaster (Rector) of the University in 1827-1846.

He made a lot to ensure access of the gifted common people, including Tatars, to the University. When he was the Rector, the campus was founded. The new building of the chemistry laboratory and the library, the anatomy theatre and the observatory were built at the University. The University library is named after N. Lobachevsky and the street situated near the rector’s residence where he lived bears his name. The small bronze sculpture to this distinguished man was erected in the square opposite his residence in 1896.

One of the most famous students of Kazan University was Vladimir Ulianov, now everybody knows him as V. Lenin. And you can see in the left windows of the bus, the monument to him as a student, which is the only one in Russia.

The University complex also includes Unics construction. It is one of the biggest sport and cultural centers in Kazan; also different students’ festivals take place here.

So, my dear guests, our excursion is coming to its end. I hope that you have liked this ancient and at the same time modern city Kazan, the city where people of more than 100 nationalities live in peace and friendship, the city which day by day transforms into a better way. Thank you for your attention! Come to Kazan again, we are always glad to see you. I will say to you in Russian “До свидания”, in Tatar “Саубулыгыз! ” Good- bye!